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Ever picked up a cheese with a sticky orange rind and a rather powerful aroma? Chances are, it has been washed.

Washed-rind cheeses are some of the most distinctive cheeses on the counter. Their rinds can range from pale gold to deep orange, their aroma can be surprisingly intense, and yet the cheese underneath can be far gentler than the smell suggests.

So why are they washed in the first place?

What is a washed-rind cheese?

During affinage, some cheeses are regularly washed or rubbed with a liquid.

Most commonly, this is a light brine solution made from water and salt. Depending on the cheese and the tradition behind it, the rind may also be treated with wine, beer, cider, spirits or other regional liquids. This washing is not simply about cleaning the cheese. It changes the environment on the surface and encourages certain yeasts and bacteria to develop while making conditions less favourable for some other moulds.

Over time, that microbial activity helps create the characteristic rind, aroma and flavour associated with washed-rind cheese.

Why does the rind turn orange?

One of the most recognisable features of washed-rind cheese is its orange, reddish or sometimes pinkish surface.

That colour is often associated with bacteria that thrive in the salty, moist environment created by washing. One of the best-known is Brevibacterium linens, commonly shortened to B. linens, although washed-rind ecosystems are usually much more complex than a single microorganism.

As these bacteria develop, they help create the colour and distinctive aroma of the rind. So that sticky orange exterior is not accidental. It is the result of a carefully managed ripening process.

And what about the smell?

This is where washed-rind cheese gets its reputation.

The bacteria and yeasts active on the surface produce aromatic compounds as they break down proteins and other components in the rind. Some of those compounds can smell meaty, savoury, earthy, barnyard-like or even slightly sulphurous. And yes, some washed-rind cheeses can smell very strong.

But here's the interesting part: A strong-smelling rind does not automatically mean an aggressively strong-tasting cheese. Many washed-rind cheeses are surprisingly creamy, buttery, savoury and even slightly sweet inside. The aroma is often concentrated at the surface, while the paste can remain much more restrained. It is one of the reasons we often tell people not to judge a washed-rind cheese by smell alone.

Why wash instead of letting mould grow?

Different rind treatments encourage different types of ripening.

On a bloomy-rind cheese such as Brie or Camembert, white mould grows freely across the surface. On many washed-rind cheeses, regular washing suppresses that kind of fluffy mould and instead creates the conditions for bacteria and yeasts to dominate. This leads to a very different rind and a very different flavour profile.

In simple terms, the affineur is helping decide which microorganisms get the upper hand. That is one of the reasons rind care is such an important part of affinage.

How often are the cheeses washed?

There is no single rule.

Some cheeses are washed frequently at the beginning of maturation and less often later on. Others may be brushed, turned and washed according to a particular schedule.

The frequency depends on the size of the cheese, the moisture content, the cellar conditions and the style the cheesemaker or affineur is trying to achieve. A small soft cheese may change dramatically over only a few weeks, while a larger wheel may develop slowly over a much longer period. The affineur watches the rind closely and adjusts the treatment as needed.

Why use wine, beer or spirits?

Brine is the most common wash, but some cheeses have traditions involving alcoholic drinks.

This can be done for historical, regional or flavour reasons. Beer, cider, wine and spirits can contribute aromatic compounds to the rind, but their role is not simply to make the cheese taste like the drink. The liquid helps shape the surface environment during ageing and can add another layer of character to the finished cheese.

Sometimes the link is strongly regional too — a local cheese washed with a local beer or spirit is a way of reflecting the food culture of a particular area.

Does washing make the cheese stronger?

Not necessarily.

What washing does is encourage a particular style of rind development and ripening. That often produces more savoury, earthy and aromatic flavours, but intensity can vary enormously from one cheese to another. Some washed-rind cheeses are mild and buttery. Others are rich, meaty and powerful. Much depends on the milk, moisture, size, age and how actively the rind has been managed.

A younger washed-rind cheese may still be relatively gentle, while the same cheese at a more mature stage can become much more aromatic and complex.

Why can the centre stay mild?

Soft washed-rind cheeses often ripen from the outside in.

The microorganisms on the rind break down proteins near the surface first, creating a softer, more supple layer beneath the rind. As the cheese matures, that softening gradually moves towards the centre. This is why a ripe washed-rind cheese may be creamy and almost spoonable near the rind while still slightly firmer in the middle. It also explains why the same cheese can taste very different depending on its age.

Should you eat the rind?

In many traditional washed-rind cheeses, the rind is intended to be edible.

And because so much of the flavour develops there, eating a little rind with the paste can give you a fuller picture of the cheese. That said, rind texture and intensity are very personal. Some people love the extra savoury punch. Others prefer a smaller amount, particularly on a very ripe cheese. There is no rule saying you have to eat every rind. Taste it and decide for yourself.

Some of the world's classic washed-rind cheeses

Many famous cheeses use some form of rind washing during maturation.

Examples include Époisses, Munster, Taleggio, Livarot, Pont-l'Évêque and Limburger, although each has its own production method, traditions and ageing style.

Despite being grouped together as washed-rind cheeses, they can taste remarkably different. Some are soft and custardy. Others are denser and more savoury. Some smell far stronger than they taste, while others genuinely deliver the intensity their aroma promises. That variation is exactly what makes the category so interesting.

Why cheesemakers go to all that trouble

Washing a cheese takes work.

It requires time, repetition and careful attention to the rind throughout maturation. But the reward is a style of cheese that would be almost impossible to create without that surface care. The washing helps shape the rind. The rind helps shape the ripening. And the ripening helps shape the flavour. So when you see a sticky orange cheese on the counter, you are not looking at a cheese that has simply been left to age. You are looking at a cheese that has been actively cared for, washed, turned and encouraged to develop its own particular microbial community. And that rather powerful smell? It may just be hiding something beautifully creamy underneath.